Epupa Falls, Namibia: Kunene River Cascades on the Angola Border

Epupa Falls, Namibia: Kunene River Cascades on the Angola Border: History & Culture

Discover Epupa Falls, Namibia: Kunene River Cascades on the Angola Border

Epupa Falls is a string of cascades, rocky channels and gorges on the Kunene River, on the border between Namibia and Angola. It lies in the Kaokoland (Kaokoveld) area of Namibia’s Kunene Region. The falls are not one big curtain of water. The river is about half a kilometre wide here, and it breaks up and drops through a maze of channels spread over about 1.5 km, with baobabs and makalani palms growing along the gorge. It is one of the most remote places you can drive to in Namibia, and one of the most rewarding.

Why Epupa Falls is worth the journey

The Kunene is one of only five rivers in Namibia that flow all year. At Epupa it reaches the falls after crossing some of the country’s driest land, so the sudden water, spray and green riverbank are hard to forget. Wikipedia puts the biggest single drop at 37 metres, and Info-Namibia describes a gorge about 40 m deep. Most visitors come for three things:

• The falls and the gorge: about 1.5 km of cascades that you can see from a viewpoint and a viewing deck.
• The riverbank: baobabs and makalani palms line the Kunene, and the lodges and campsites sit in their shade.
• The people: the semi-nomadic Ovahimba live in this area, along with Ovatjimba, Ovazemba and Ovatwa communities.

The steep riverbank habitat also supports endemic fish and other water species. The falls have appeared on screen in the 2011 documentary Samsara and in The Grand Tour.

History and heritage

What the name means

The sources differ on this. Wikipedia says Epupa is a Herero word for the foam made by falling water. Epupa Falls Lodge says it is an Ovahimba word meaning falling water. Either way, the name describes exactly what you see when you get there.

The dam that was never built

Engineers once picked out two possible dam sites on the Lower Kunene: one at Epupa and one further downstream at Baynes. The OvaHimba strongly opposed a dam at Epupa, which would have flooded the falls and their land. People outside Namibia opposed it too, and the Epupa project was shelved. Attention then moved to a smaller hydropower scheme at Baynes, which Himba traditional authorities have also opposed. For many visitors this history is part of what makes the falls matter. They are still here because local communities fought for them.

Things to do at Epupa Falls

• Watch the sunset over the falls: the most popular way to end a day here.
• Guided river walks and sunset hikes: follow the Kunene along the gorge and past the cascades.
• Birdwatching: the green strip of riverbank stands out sharply against the dry land around it.
• Crocodile excursions and whitewater rafting: both are offered on this stretch of the Kunene.
• Himba cultural visits: visits to Ovahimba communities can be arranged locally.
• 4×4 the riverside track: a rough off-road route of about 90 km follows the Kunene between Epupa and Swartbooisdrift. It is only for experienced drivers.
• Visit Ruacana Falls: about 135 km upstream on the same river.

How to get to Epupa Falls

By road

Opuwo, the regional capital, is the usual starting point. From there, take the DR 3700 gravel road north through Okongwati. Sources give different times for this drive: Epupa Camp says about 180 km and three hours, and Epupa Falls Lodge says about 199 km and about four hours. Plan for the longer figure.

• From Ruacana: about 250 km, around five hours, via Swartbooisdrift (DR 3701) to Epembe, then the DR 3700 through Okongwati.
• Scenic river route from Ruacana: about 140 km and roughly three hours along the Kunene. You cannot use it when the river floods, which normally happens in the rainy season from October to May.
• From Windhoek or Swakopmund: Epupa Falls Lodge estimates about 10 hours from Windhoek and about 11 hours from Swakopmund.

A 4×4 is recommended, especially in the rainy season. Fill up with fuel, water and food in Opuwo before you leave, because there are very few shops at Epupa.

By air

Epupa has a gravel airstrip (runway 11/29, 950 x 30 m, elevation 2,500 ft) about 8 km from Epupa Camp, so fly-in day trips are possible. Opuwo also has an airstrip for charter flights.

Where to stay and eat

All the places to stay are on the river, close to the falls. The main options are:

• Epupa Falls Lodge & Campsite: family-run since 1990. It has five en-suite chalets (River View, Family and Honeymoon) and riverfront campsites, and the falls are a few minutes’ walk away. Breakfast and dinner are included with lodge rooms.
• Epupa Camp: about 800 m upstream of the falls. It has a riverfront campsite, family, double and twin tented rooms, and The Cottage, all under big trees by the Kunene. Meals are not included in the base rate.
• Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp (Gondwana Collection): 14 en-suite tented chalets (double, twin and family) under the palms, with tea and coffee facilities, mosquito nets and a pool.
• Kapika Waterfall Lodge: another lodge option at Epupa.

There are no independent restaurants at Epupa. You eat at your lodge, and campers should bring their own supplies from Opuwo.

Best time to visit Epupa Falls

The falls are at their fullest after the rains. Info-Namibia names April and May as the best months to see them. Epupa Falls Lodge points out that there is no fixed peak date, because the flow depends on rain in the Angolan highlands. If you would rather have milder temperatures, May to July is more comfortable. Remember that the scenic river road from Ruacana can be closed by floods from October to May.

Photo: Hans Hillewaert, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.