Chinhoyi Caves, Zimbabwe: The Sleeping Pool, Dark Cave and Diving Guide

Chinhoyi Caves, Zimbabwe: The Sleeping Pool, Dark Cave and Diving Guide: History & Culture

Discover Chinhoyi Caves, Zimbabwe: The Sleeping Pool, Dark Cave and Diving Guide

Chinhoyi Caves is a limestone and dolomite sinkhole in Mashonaland West, Zimbabwe, about 9 km northwest of Chinhoyi town, just off the A1 Harare–Chirundu (Kariba) road. At the bottom lies the cobalt-blue Sleeping Pool, known locally as Chirorodziva. It is described as the most extensive cave system in Zimbabwe that is open to the public. It suits a half-day visit or an overnight stop on the way from Harare to Lake Kariba, Mana Pools or Chirundu, and its steady water temperature makes it one of the region’s best-known inland dive sites all year round.

Getting to Chinhoyi Caves

The caves sit off the A1 between Harare and Chirundu. The turn-off is signposted on the left as you drive from Harare. The nearest airport is Harare International (Robert Gabriel Mugabe International) Airport, about 115 km away. Most visitors drive themselves, but Harare operators also run guided day trips to the caves.

• Location: about 9 km northwest of Chinhoyi town, Makonde District, Mashonaland West Province
• Road: A1 Harare–Chirundu (Kariba) road
• Nearest airport: Harare International, about 115 km
• Protected area: about 1.2 km² recreational park, next to 8.6 km² of protected state land

What to see at Chinhoyi Caves

The Sleeping Pool (Chirorodziva)

The main sight is the Sleeping Pool, which lies 46 m below ground in the Wonder Hole. Its deep cobalt-blue colour comes from lime particles dispersed in the water, and goldfish live in it. The water stays around 22–24°C all year, and visibility often exceeds 50 m.

The Wonder Hole

The Wonder Hole is the collapsed sinkhole itself. From its rim you look straight down to the Sleeping Pool. Paved steps lead down towards the water.

The Dark Cave

The Dark Cave is reached by steep steps and narrow passages. Inside are stalactites and stalagmites, and a viewpoint looks back over the Sleeping Pool from underground.

Bat Cave and Blind Cave

The Bat Cave opens off the Dark Cave. An underwater passage links it to the Blind Cave, which only divers can reach. The Blind Cave dive is about 58 m deep.

Things to do

• Walk the caves: take the paved steps down to the Sleeping Pool and go through the Dark Cave. The route is steep, so wear good shoes.
• Scuba and technical diving: diving here has been described as on a par with some of the best dive sites in the world. You must dive with a Zimbabwe-registered dive club, such as Dive Wild Zimbabwe. Because the water temperature barely changes, you can dive year-round.
• Hiking and caving: ZimParks lists both among the park’s activities.
• Birdwatching: species include Arnot’s chat, Angola rock thrush, bat hawk and paradise flycatcher. Birding is best in the dry winter months.
• Picnics and camping: the park has picnic sites and a campsite.

The park also has indigenous trees such as mukwa, Cape fig, msasa and violet tree. Impala and baboons live in the park too.

History and heritage

The caves formed as slightly acidic rainwater dissolved the calcium carbonate in limestone and dolomite until the roof collapsed into a circular sinkhole. The dolomite holds stromatolites, described as amongst the earliest forms of life in Zimbabwe.

People have used the site for a very long time. Pottery and human remains found here have been dated to about 650 AD, and ZimParks records that Shona communities used the caves from the 16th century to store grain and to take refuge.

The name Chirorodziva means “Pool of the Fallen”. It is linked to an 1830 attack by the Angoni, who threw their victims into the pool. Local tradition also tells of a bandit, Nyamakwere, who drowned people here until Chief Chinhoyi killed him and became the local Mashona chief. During Ndebele raids under Mzilikazi and Lobengula, Chief Chinhoyi led his people into the cave, where about 300 sheltered. He took refuge there again in 1896 during the European occupation.

The site became a national park in 1955 and a recreational park in 1975. It is National Monument No. 9, and in May 2013 it was listed as a Ramsar wetland of international importance (site no. 2103). The caves are still considered sacred and are used for ancestral ceremonies, so treat them with respect.

Where to stay near Chinhoyi Caves

Most accommodation is in Chinhoyi town, a short drive from the caves:

• Zebras Dazzle B&B – Lodge in Chinhoyi: 2 Baobab Ave, Orange Grove, about 8.4 km from the caves. An eco-friendly, fully solar-powered villa with individually designed en-suite rooms, an on-site restaurant serving international food, free breakfast and free parking. Guests describe it as a great place to stop on the way to Kariba.
• Msasa Guest House Chinhoyi: a guest house in town, about 9 km from the caves. It has a bird-filled garden in a quiet neighbourhood, in-room tea and coffee, and free Wi-Fi. Guests often praise the home-cooked food.
• ZimParks campsite and caravan park: at the caves, with three ablution blocks with hot water, baths and showers, plus picnic sites.

Where to eat

Sources disagree on whether food is sold at the caves, so pack a picnic and check locally before you go. Restaurants listed near the caves include The Ripe Fig (European), PaCar Wash Restaurant (African and international), Muzari Restaurant (African) and The Dazzle Restaurant at Zebras Dazzle (international).

Practical tips

• Best time to visit: any time of year. The water stays at 22–24°C, and birding is best in the dry winter months.
• Opening: the park opens early in the morning and you don’t need to book. Confirm exact hours and current entrance fees with ZimParks before you travel.
• Footwear: the steps and cave passages are steep, so wear sturdy shoes.
• Diving: arrange your dive in advance with a Zimbabwe-registered dive club.

Photo: Suesen, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.